Max Mara’s Shanghai Gambit: A Bold Return to the East

Max Mara’s Shanghai Gambit: A Bold Return to the East

Max Mara has officially staked its claim on the future of luxury diplomacy, confirming that its Resort 2027 collection will be unveiled in Shanghai on June 16, 2026. By pivoting from the baroque splendor of Naples’ Reggia di Caserta to the hyper-modern skyline of China’s fashion capital, the Italian powerhouse is not merely scheduling a runway show; it is orchestrating a geopolitical statement. In a climate where competitors are hesitating, Max Mara’s decision to announce a massive activation in Asia over a year in advance signals unwavering confidence in the Chinese market and a strategic evolution of its "pragmatic feminism" narrative on a global stage.

The Pivot: From Bourbon Palaces to the Bund

For the past several seasons, Creative Director Ian Griffiths has anchored Max Mara’s resort narrative in the rich, tactile history of Europe. We have seen the brand traverse the grandiose halls of Stockholm’s City Hall, the haunting beauty of Lisbon, and most recently, the cinematic grandeur of Italy.

The upcoming Resort 2026 show, set for the Reggia di Caserta near Naples, is titled “Venere Vesuviana”—a tribute to Neapolitan passion and the golden age of Italian cinema. It reinforces the brand's roots in the bel paese.

However, the announcement of Shanghai for Resort 2027 marks a decisive shift. It breaks the pattern of Euro-centric heritage sites to engage with a futuristic metropolis. This is not a rejection of the past, but a recalibration of where the future lies.

By selecting June 16, 2026, for the presentation, Max Mara is adhering to the complex "cruise" calendar, where collections are presented a full year ahead of their titular date. This long-lead announcement acts as a signal flare to the industry: Max Mara is playing the long game.

Strategic Diplomacy: The China Equation

The decision to return to Shanghai is laden with economic subtext. While many Western luxury conglomerates are currently navigating a "wait and see" approach regarding China’s post-pandemic recovery and shifting luxury consumption patterns, Max Mara is doubling down.

The brand, privately held and historically resilient, is utilizing this show as a form of soft power. It is a declaration that the Max Mara Group views China not just as a point of sale, but as a cultural partner.

This move mirrors the strategies of heavyweights like Louis Vuitton and Dior, who have turned their cruise shows into traveling roadshows of dominance. However, Max Mara’s approach is characteristically distinct.

Where competitors often rely on viral spectacle and celebrity chaos, Max Mara relies on architectural dialogue and cultural integration. The Shanghai show is expected to be less of a carnival and more of a curated exchange between Italian tailoring codes and Chinese modernity.

Ian Griffiths and the Architecture of Womanhood

The red thread connecting these disparate locations—from the Palazzo Ducale in Venice to the forthcoming venue in Shanghai—is Ian Griffiths’ vision of "pragmatic feminism."

Griffiths has successfully repositioned the resort collection from a commercial filler season into a platform for high-concept storytelling. He treats the Max Mara woman as a global intellect, someone who is as comfortable in a cashmere coat on the streets of Milan as she is navigating the boardrooms of the Pudong district.

The Shanghai show will likely explore the intersection of the brand’s iconic outerwear—the Teddy Bear coat, the 101801—with the specific climate and aesthetic sensibilities of East Asia.

We can anticipate a collection that bridges the gap between the heavy wools and alpacas the house is famous for, and the lighter, humid-appropriate fabrics required for a Shanghai summer evening. This technical adaptability is where Max Mara often outshines its peers.

The Destination Arms Race

The fashion industry is currently locked in an "arms race" of destination shows. The logic is simple: in a digital-first world, the backdrop of the runway is as important as the clothes themselves.

Chanel has claimed Lake Como; Gucci has taken over the Tate Modern and Florentine palazzos; Louis Vuitton is continuously exploring architectural marvels from the Salk Institute to Isola Bella. In this crowded field, Max Mara has carved out a niche of "intellectual luxury tourism."

By announcing Shanghai, Max Mara is separating itself from the Euro-tour circuit of its competitors. It is a riskier, more logistical challenge, but one that offers a higher reward in terms of market penetration and local relevance.

The choice of venue in Shanghai—yet to be disclosed—will be critical. Whether the brand chooses a heritage site on the Bund or a repurposed industrial space in the West Bund Art District will determine the tone of the conversation.

Timeline: The Max Mara Grand Tour

  • June 2021: The brand signals its destination intent with a show at the Hotel Mezzatorre on the island of Ischia, blending travel romance with 1950s glamour.
  • June 2022: The narrative moves north to Lisbon, utilizing the lush gardens of the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation, emphasizing intellectualism and art.
  • June 2023: A shift to Scandinavian cool at the City Hall in Stockholm, celebrating Nordic heroines and functionality.
  • June 2024 (Resort 2025): The spectacle arrives at the Palazzo Ducale in Venice, a high-water mark for the brand’s luxury positioning.
  • June 2025 (Resort 2026): The upcoming show at the Reggia di Caserta near Naples, focusing on "Venere Vesuviana" and Neapolitan vibrancy.
  • June 16, 2026 (Resort 2027): The newly confirmed leap to Shanghai, marking the brand’s major return to Asia.

Forecast: What to Expect in Shanghai

Looking ahead to June 2026, the implications of this show extend beyond the runway. We project a significant ramp-up in localized marketing.

The Front Row Dynamics: Expect a heavily curated guest list that prioritizes Asian cinema icons and C-pop stars alongside Western ambassadors. Max Mara will likely use this moment to bridge its cinematic obsession—seen in its tributes to Marilyn Monroe and Sophia Loren—with the golden era of Shanghai cinema.

The Product Mix: While the core will remain Italian craftsmanship, anticipate a capsule element or styling direction that nods to Chinese sartorial history without falling into pastiche. The Whitney Bag, a staple of the house, may see region-specific iterations.

The Sustainability Question: As the carbon footprint of destination shows comes under increasing scrutiny, Max Mara will face pressure to justify the logistics of a trans-continental event. We expect the house to offset this with a narrative focused on timelessness and "buy less, buy better" durability—a core tenet of their brand philosophy.

Fashion Intelligence Verdict

Max Mara’s Shanghai announcement is a calculated display of strength. In an industry often governed by short-term trends and quarterly anxieties, the Maramotti family and Ian Griffiths are demonstrating the power of private ownership and long-term vision.

They are betting that by June 2026, the world—and specifically the luxury consumer—will be ready to embrace a globalized, cross-cultural dialogue once again. It is a gamble on stability, executed with the quiet confidence of a brand that knows exactly who it is.

Written by Ara Ohanian for FAZ Fashion — fashion intelligence for the modern reader.

Share Tweet Pin it
Back to blog