In 2025, the fashion industry continues to grapple with a contentious issue that has sparked heated debates across social media platforms and beyond: cultural appropriation. The latest controversy involves fast fashion brands borrowing South Asian designs without proper credit, collaboration, or understanding. This trend has reignited discussions about the ethics of cultural exchange in the global fashion market.
The Recent Controversy: Reformation and the South Asian Lehenga
A recent example of this cultural borrowing involves the clothing brand Reformation and influencer Devon Lee Carlson. Their new collection features a baby blue three-piece outfit that bears a striking resemblance to a traditional South Asian lehenga. The outfit, which includes a low-rise midi skirt, a matching camisole, and a long scarf, has been criticized for its lack of acknowledgment of South Asian cultural heritage.
While some fashion enthusiasts praised the aesthetic of the collection, many social media users were quick to point out the obvious similarities to traditional South Asian garments. The backlash was immediate, with critics accusing the brand of cultural appropriation and calling for greater recognition of the origins of the design.
Cultural Appropriation: A Growing Concern in the Fashion Industry
Cultural appropriation refers to the act of taking or using elements of another culture without permission, often for personal or financial gain. In the context of fashion, this can include the use of traditional designs, patterns, or symbols from marginalized communities without proper credit or compensation.
In the case of Reformation and Devon Lee Carlson, the controversy centers around the mislabeling of the design as "Scandinavian-inspired," despite its clear resemblance to South Asian attire. This mislabeling not only erases the cultural significance of the design but also perpetuates the commercialization of cultural heritage.
The Broader Issue: Fast Fashion's Exploitation of South Asian Designs
Unfortunately, this incident is not isolated. Fast fashion brands such as Oh Polly, PepperMayo, and others have routinely taken inspiration from South Asian cultural attire, stripping away its context and reselling it as trendy pieces for profit. This cycle of cultural borrowing, rebranding, and selling underscores the ongoing frustrations about erasure, lack of credit, and the commercialization of cultural heritage in the global fashion industry.
For many, these actions are seen as a clear case of cultural appropriation, where elements of a marginalized culture are used by others outside the community without permission or understanding. This not only perpetuates stereotypes but also contributes to the erasure of the cultural significance of these designs.
The High Cost of Cultural Appropriation
Another aspect of this controversy is the high retail price of the outfit, which contrasts sharply with what Indian designers could offer for a fraction of the cost. Social media users were quick to point out the disparity, with some noting that South Asian designers could create similar looks at a lower price point without compromising on quality or cultural authenticity.
This raises important questions about the value placed on cultural heritage and the exploitation of marginalized communities for profit. When fast fashion brands appropriate cultural designs without proper credit or compensation, they not only perpetuate cultural erasure but also profit from the cultural heritage of others.
Why Cultural Appropriation Matters
The issue of cultural appropriation in fashion is complex and multifaceted. Here are some reasons why it matters:
- Cultural Erasure: Cultural appropriation often involves the erasure of the cultural significance of a design or symbol, reducing it to a mere trend or fashion statement.
- Lack of Credit: When brands borrow from marginalized cultures without proper credit, they perpetuate the notion that these cultures are not worthy of recognition or compensation.
- Exploitation: The commercialization of cultural heritage without permission or compensation is a form of exploitation, particularly when it involves marginalized communities.
- Perpetuation of Stereotypes: Cultural appropriation can perpetuate stereotypes and reinforce harmful notions about marginalized cultures.
The Way Forward: Promoting Cultural Exchange and Collaboration
The controversy surrounding Reformation and Devon Lee Carlson's collection highlights the need for greater awareness and understanding of cultural appropriation in the fashion industry. To address this issue, brands must take a more thoughtful and ethical approach to cultural exchange.
Here are some steps that brands can take to promote cultural exchange and collaboration:
- Collaborate with Marginalized Creators: Brands should seek out opportunities to collaborate with designers and creators from marginalized communities. This not only ensures that cultural designs are used with permission but also provides a platform for underrepresented voices.
- Provide Proper Credit: When borrowing from other cultures, brands should provide proper credit and compensation to the communities from which the designs originate. This includes acknowledging the cultural significance of the design and ensuring that the community benefits from its use.
- Educate Consumers: Brands have a responsibility to educate consumers about the cultural significance of the designs they use. This can help to promote greater understanding and appreciation of cultural heritage.
- Support Ethical Fashion Practices: Consumers can also play a role in promoting ethical fashion practices by supporting brands that prioritize cultural sensitivity and ethical collaboration.
Conclusion: The Future of Fashion and Cultural Heritage
The controversy surrounding Reformation and Devon Lee Carlson's collection is a reminder of the ongoing challenges of cultural appropriation in the fashion industry. As the global fashion market continues to grow, it is essential that brands take a more thoughtful and ethical approach to cultural exchange.
By promoting collaboration, providing proper credit, and educating consumers, brands can help to ensure that cultural heritage is respected and celebrated, rather than exploited. Only then can the fashion industry truly embrace the richness and diversity of global cultures in a way that is ethical, sustainable, and inclusive.
In 2025, as consumers become more aware of the ethical implications of their purchasing decisions, the demand for culturally sensitive and ethically produced fashion will only continue to grow. Brands that prioritize cultural sensitivity and ethical collaboration will not only build trust with their customers but also contribute to a more equitable and sustainable fashion industry.