What Is Flannel?

How is flannel made?

Flannel is made by weaving a plain or twill cloth, usually from carded yarns, and then napping it so that loose fibre ends rise into a soft, fuzzy surface. Britannica describes the nap as running from slight to heavy enough to hide the twill, with the amount set by what the cloth is for.

Napping can be done on one side or on both. The Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion notes that cotton flannel may be dyed or printed after napping and then brushed or napped again to restore the surface.

Wool flannel

Wool flannel can be made from woollen or worsted yarn. Woollen yarn gives a denser nap; woollen flannels are usually plain-woven and napped on one side. Worsted flannels are usually twill-woven, and are lighter, firmer and harder-wearing.

Cotton flannel

Cotton flannel uses soft, loosely spun filling yarns, which keep the nap dense. Cotton Incorporated describes it as a medium-weight fabric with a napped finish on one or both sides.

Is flannel Welsh?

Probably, though the evidence is about the word as much as the cloth, and not every source is certain. The Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion says the fabric originated in Wales; Cotton Incorporated says it likely did.

The dates differ too. Cotton Incorporated says flannel has been made since the 17th century. The Online Etymology Dictionary records the English word from about 1300, as flaunneol, and quotes the OED: flannel was already a well-known Welsh product in the 16th century. Skeat and others derive it from Welsh gwlanen, “woollen cloth”, but the Online Etymology Dictionary notes this is not universally accepted because of the sound changes involved. Barnhart, Gamillscheg and Diez propose instead an Anglo-French diminutive of Old French flaine, “a kind of coarse wool”.

What are the properties of flannel?

Flannel is relatively warm because its napped surface traps still air, according to Britannica; the Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion adds that napping gives it a soft hand. The rest depends on the fibre and the yarn.

• Warmth: the raised fibres hold still air, so flannel is relatively warm.
• Tailoring: pure wool flannel shapes easily with steam and heat, which suits it to trousers, skirts, suits and coats.
• Durability: Britannica says adding a man-made fibre to wool flannel raises its resistance to abrasion, some blends help prevent stretching, and blends such as acrylic improve crease retention. Blends with acrylic, nylon or polyester are used for washable suits.
• Softening: Cotton Incorporated says cotton flannel gets softer with age.

How is flannel graded or measured?

Flannel has no single grade such as a micron or wale count. Instead it is described by fibre, yarn type, weave, weight and how heavily, and on how many sides, it is napped. The names below are the ones you are most likely to meet.

The table draws on Britannica and the Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. A related cloth, flannel-back satin, is a silk satin woven with spun weft yarns and napped on the back.

How does flannel appear on a clothing label?

Flannel is a cloth name, not a fibre, so the fibre-content line will read something like “100% Wool” or “100% Cotton”, not “flannel”. The rules differ slightly by jurisdiction.

Under US law

• The label must give generic fibre names and percentages by weight, in descending order, plus the country of origin and the identity of the manufacturer or dealer (a registered RN number may replace the name).
• Fibres under 5% are normally grouped as “other fiber”, unless the fibre has a clear function at that amount. Wool is the exception: it must always be named with its percentage, even below 5%.
• Reclaimed or recycled wool must be labelled “recycled wool”, not plain “wool”.
• Care instructions come under a separate FTC rule, the Care Labeling Rule (16 CFR Part 423).

In the EU

• Only the fibre names listed in Annex I of Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 may be used, and every fibre is listed with its percentage by weight in descending order.
• “Virgin wool” or “fleece wool” may appear only on products of wool that has never been in a finished product, has had no spinning or felting beyond what that product needed, and is undamaged by treatment or use.
• Labels must be durable, legible, visible and accessible, and in the official language or languages of the member state where the product is sold.

What is the difference between flannel and plaid?

Flannel is a fabric defined by its napped finish; plaid is a pattern of crossing stripes that can be woven or printed on many cloths. The two are confused because flannel is often woven with patterns, especially plaid and tartan, as Cotton Incorporated notes. A flannel shirt is a shirt cut from flannel, whatever its pattern.

Cotton flannel is also close to brushed cotton: both are cotton cloths with a raised surface.

How do you tell good flannel from poor flannel?

Good flannel has the fibre and yarn that suit its job, a nap that matches its use, and a complete label.

1. Read the fibre line first. Wool flannel for tailoring, cotton for shirts and sleepwear. A man-made share in wool flannel is not a fault in itself: Britannica says it raises abrasion resistance, and blending prevents felting shrinkage.
2. Look for the weave under the nap. Hold the cloth to the light. On a lightly napped twill you can still see the diagonal lines; a heavy nap hides them. Neither is better, but the nap should match the use.
3. Turn it over. Lightweight cotton napped on one side only is flannelette by definition; outing flannel is a heavier cotton type.
4. Judge woollen against worsted. A dense nap on a plain weave points to woollen flannel. A lighter, firmer twill points to worsted flannel, which wears better.
5. Check the label is complete. A US label needs fibres, percentages, country of origin and the maker’s name or RN.

Red flags: a tag that says “flannel” with no fibre content; wool that appears in the description but not on the fibre line; or “virgin wool” on an EU-sold blend that does not meet the Article 8 conditions.

How do you care for flannel?

Follow the sewn-in care label first, since wool and cotton flannel are cared for differently.

• Wool flannel: The Woolmark Company advises the machine’s wool setting, usually gentle action at 40°C, or a hand wash in lukewarm water at about 30°C, with a neutral, mild detergent. Dry flat. Britannica notes that blending wool with acrylic, nylon or polyester prevents felting shrinkage, which is how washable wool-blend suits are made.
• Cotton flannel: Cotton Incorporated recommends a cold wash and a low tumble dry, and says cotton flannel does not need ironing or dry cleaning.

Is flannel sustainable?

Not automatically: flannel is a weave and finish, so its impact depends on the fibre it is made from and how long the garment lasts. The label tells you the fibre and, in the US, whether any wool is recycled, since recycled wool must be named as such. In the EU, “virgin wool” tells you the opposite: wool that has never been in a finished product. Neither label tells you how the fibre was farmed or processed.