When Tyla stepped onto the streets of London this week, the flashbulbs didn’t just capture a pop star in transit; they documented a shifting tide in the luxury fashion ecosystem. By anchoring her look with a rare, vintage Louis Vuitton x Takashi Murakami Multicolore bag in a striking shade of green, the South African sensation did more than pay homage to the early 2000s. She positioned herself as a curator of archival history, bridging the gap between the nostalgia of the Marc Jacobs era and the hyper-visual literacy of Gen Z. This is not merely a style choice—it is a signal that the power of trend-setting has officially migrated from the runway to the resale market.
The Anatomy of a Viral Look
The image is undeniably striking, a masterclass in the "McBling" aesthetic that defined the celebrity culture of the early millennium. Tyla paired the archival accessory with a sheer, emerald-green lace bra, micro-denim shorts that defy gravity, and sleek black heels. It is a look that screams 2003, yet feels surgically precise for the TikTok algorithm of 2024.
Fashion critics at Vogue and W Magazine were quick to dissect the outfit, noting the intentional color coordination. The specific shade of green in the lace lingerie perfectly pulls the verdant accents from the Murakami canvas, a styling trick that elevates the ensemble from a costume to a cohesive editorial statement.
However, the true protagonist of this visual narrative is the bag itself. The Louis Vuitton x Takashi Murakami collaboration, originally launched in Spring/Summer 2003, represents a specific inflection point in luxury history. It was the moment the industry stopped whispering and started shouting. By resurrecting this specific piece, Tyla is tapping into a potent reservoir of cultural memory.
For the uninitiated, the look might appear casual. But for industry insiders, the semiotics are clear: Tyla is displaying access, knowledge, and the ability to source hard-to-find vintage goods. In an era where new luxury is accessible to anyone with a credit card, the vintage Murakami bag signals a higher form of status—the status of the hunt.
The Marc Jacobs Legacy and the Art of Hype
To understand the weight of Tyla’s accessory choice, one must revisit the landscape of luxury under Marc Jacobs. When Jacobs invited Japanese contemporary artist Takashi Murakami to remix the sacred Louis Vuitton monogram, it was viewed by purists as heresy. The resulting "Multicolore" canvas—featuring 33 distinct colors on black or white backgrounds—was a radical departure from the house’s stoic brown and beige heritage.
The collaboration birthed the modern concept of the "It Bag." These were not just accessories; they were cultural tokens of the pre-social media era, swinging from the arms of Britney Spears, Paris Hilton, and Jessica Simpson. They represented a democratization of art and a commercialization of cool that had never been seen before.
Today, Louis Vuitton is steered by Nicolas Ghesquière, whose vision is decidedly more architectural and futuristic. By reaching back to the Jacobs era, Tyla is bypassing the current brand narrative to engage with a period that Gen Z views with mythical reverence. It highlights a tension brands currently face: their archives are often generating more heat than their current collections.
This "logomania" revival is not about brand loyalty in the traditional sense. It is about aesthetic appropriation. Tyla is not wearing the bag to say "I shop at Louis Vuitton." She is wearing it to say, "I understand the cultural history of pop stardom."
Resale Economics: The Value of Nostalgia
The financial implications of Tyla’s London street style moment are immediate and measurable. Because the Murakami collaboration has been out of production for over a decade, demand is funneled entirely through the secondary market. Platforms like The RealReal, Vestiaire Collective, and Rebag monitor these celebrity sightings closely, as they almost invariably lead to spikes in search volume and pricing.
Current market data suggests that Murakami Multicolore pieces are appreciating assets. While entry-level small leather goods might trade between $700 and $1,200, pristine bags—especially in rarer colorways like the green carried by Tyla—can command prices from $1,500 to upwards of $4,000.
This creates a unique economic loop. Tyla provides millions of dollars in earned media value for Louis Vuitton, reinforcing the brand's desirability. Yet, the direct revenue from this specific trend is captured by resellers, vintage archivists, and consignment shops. It is a phenomenon where the brand equity is refreshed, but the transaction occurs outside the brand’s gates.
Analysts note that "investment grade" vintage is becoming a legitimate portfolio strategy for young collectors. The "Tyla Effect" validates the purchase of these assets, reassuring buyers that the Y2K trend is not a fleeting fad, but a sustained market movement.
Tyla as the New Pop Archetype
Why does Tyla, specifically, make this moment work? It comes down to the evolution of the pop star archetype. In the 2000s, stars like Britney Spears were often passive vessels for stylists and trends. Tyla, conversely, operates as an active curator.
Her styling choices, from her Coachella looks referencing Britney’s VMAs era to this London street style moment, suggest a deliberate construction of lineage. She is visually inserting herself into the pantheon of pop royalty by adopting their uniforms. The micro-shorts and visible bra are not just "sexy"; they are citations. They reference a time of chaotic, unfiltered celebrity culture that Gen Z finds intoxicatingly authentic compared to today’s curated Instagram feeds.
This "referential styling" is a hallmark of modern fashion literacy. It proves that the wearer has done the homework. Tyla is signaling that she is not just a participant in the music industry, but a student of its visual history.
Strategic Timeline: The Multicolore Lifecycle
- 2003: Marc Jacobs and Takashi Murakami launch the Multicolore Monogram collection, defining the aesthetic of the decade.
- 2010s: As minimalism and "Old Celine" aesthetics take over, the loud, colorful logos fall out of favor; the collection is eventually discontinued.
- 2020: Gen Z discovers Y2K fashion on TikTok; prices for vintage "It Bags" begin a steady climb.
- 2024: Tyla’s London appearance cements the Murakami bag not as a throwback, but as a timeless staple of the "new vintage" canon.
Future Forecast: The Archive Wars
What happens next? The industry is likely to see an intensification of the "Archive Wars." As celebrities like Tyla, Olivia Rodrigo, and Dua Lipa continue to mine the past for content, the supply of high-quality vintage pieces will dwindle, driving prices higher.
We predict that luxury houses will attempt to reclaim this value. We may see Louis Vuitton and its peers launching their own certified vintage programs or "Re-Edition" collections to capture the spend that is currently leaking to the resale market. However, there is a risk: re-releasing these icons can dilute the scarcity that makes them cool in the first place.
For Tyla, the trajectory is clear. She will continue to use fashion as a narrative device, likely moving into deeper, more obscure archival references. The "Murakami Green" moment is just the beginning of her tenure as a fashion power player.
Expert Insight
The enduring appeal of the Murakami collaboration was perhaps best summarized by the artist himself during the initial launch: "Luxury has a long history, and I wanted to bring my own world into that history." That fusion of worlds is exactly what Tyla achieved in London. She brought her world—youth, digital fluency, and global pop appeal—into the history of Louis Vuitton, revitalizing it for a new generation.
Written by Ara Ohanian for FAZ Fashion — fashion intelligence for the modern reader.
