Forget everything you think you know about velvet. Erase the images of heavy, historical drapery and stiff, ceremonial robes. In the hands of designer Sureena Chowdhri, this storied fabric sheds its formidable past and is reborn as something utterly new: a liquid dream, a shimmering illusion, a living, breathing entity. Her latest collection, aptly named Mayajaal, is not merely a new line of clothing; it is a profound artistic statement that challenges our perception of material and reality itself.
In a market often saturated with predictable opulence, Mayajaal emerges as a quiet revolution. It transforms velvet from a symbol of static royalty into a medium for dynamic expression, making it fluid, ethereal, and deeply personal. Set against the haunting beauty of the Jodhpur dunes and brought to life by the enigmatic presence of actor-musician Saba Azad, this collection is a cinematic exploration of the space between what we see and what we feel, proving that true luxury lies not in excess, but in emotion.
The Philosophy of Illusion: Deconstructing Māyā
At the heart of Mayajaal lies a concept deeply rooted in Vedic philosophy: māyā. The term, often translated as ‘illusion,’ speaks to the magical, often deceptive, power that constructs our perceived reality. Sureena Chowdhri masterfully seizes this ancient idea and weaves it into the very fabric of her collection. Here, velvet becomes a metaphor for māyā—its deep pile absorbing light while its surface reflects it, creating a constant, hypnotic interplay of shadow and sheen. The garment is no longer just an object; it is an experience, a mirage that shifts with every movement.
The campaign, a masterclass in atmospheric storytelling, amplifies this philosophy. Filmed entirely at night under the stark moonlight of the Jodhpur desert, the visuals are surreal and dreamlike. The velvet ensembles, rendered in rich jewel tones, appear almost liquid, flowing over the body like molten sapphire and emerald. This is a deliberate choice, a visual manifestation of the collection's core theme of fluidity and transformation.
Saba Azad, cast as a lone wanderer in this liminal landscape, becomes the perfect conduit for this narrative. She moves through a world populated by symbolic props—a handcrafted toy stand, a delicate beaded veil, a solitary tree adorned with framed portraits. These are familiar emblems of Indian ceremony, yet they are reinterpreted, stripped of their conventional context and imbued with a surreal, almost melancholic beauty. Azad is not just modeling clothes; she is embodying the spirit of Mayajaal, a soul navigating the beautiful, blurry line between the real and the imagined.
From Royal Garb to Liquid Light: The Reinvention of a Fabric
Sureena Chowdhri’s relationship with velvet is not a fleeting affair. The brand has built a formidable reputation for its signature creations in the fabric, earning a loyal following among some of the most discerning names in Indian cinema and society. Celebrities such as Alia Bhatt, Kiara Advani, Gauri Khan, Preity Zinta, and the legendary Zeenat Aman have frequently been seen in her designs, cementing the label's status as a master of modern Indian couture.
Mayajaal, however, represents a pivotal evolution. As the designer herself explains, the collection marks “a moment of clarity.” The brand has moved from simply “experimenting with velvet to expressing through it—using fabric as a way to tell stories of perception, craft, and continuity.” This is a crucial distinction. It signals a shift from technical mastery to philosophical inquiry, where the fabric is no longer just the medium but also the message.
This collection liberates velvet from its heavy-handed historical role. Where it once stood for rigid ceremony, it now represents personal narrative and emotional resonance. The weight is lifted, both literally and figuratively, resulting in garments that are lush without being loud, and opulent without being oppressive. It is a testament to the designer's vision that she can take a material so steeped in tradition and make it feel radically contemporary and deeply intimate.
The Soul of the Garment: Craftsmanship as Narrative
The sublime vision of Mayajaal is anchored by an unwavering commitment to meticulous, slow craftsmanship. This is where the magic of illusion is painstakingly brought into reality. The collection showcases a reinterpretation of zardozi, the traditional Indian art of metallic embroidery. In Chowdhri’s hands, this ancient technique sheds its ceremonial weight and takes on a new, sculptural form.
Threads of soft metallics and subtle gemstone accents are used not to dominate the velvet, but to converse with it. The embroidery feels alive, catching the light to give the fabric a subtle, ethereal shimmer rather than an overwhelming glare. It’s a delicate dance of texture and light, where the craft enhances the fabric’s inherent mystery. Some of these intricate pieces require an astonishing over 500 hours of hand embroidery, a powerful statement on the value of human touch and unhurried artistry in a world obsessed with speed.
The silhouettes themselves are a study in restrained innovation, reinterpreting Indian classics for a modern sensibility. The collection features an exquisite range of forms:
- Structured velvet jackets offering a sharp, tailored counterpoint to the fluid grace of shararas.
- Kaftans cut with an elegant, flowing ease that maximizes the fabric's liquid drape.
- Delicately scalloped sarees that feel both timeless and contemporary.
- Modern lehengas paired with chic, cropped jackets.
- Classic anarkalis given a contemporary edge when worn under tailored waistcoats.
Each silhouette demonstrates a deep understanding of both form and fabric, creating a harmonious balance between traditional heritage and a forward-looking aesthetic.
Fashion as Film: A New Era of Storytelling
“Viewers today engage with fashion the way they do with film; they expect emotion and storytelling," states Govind Chowdhri, the brand's Co-Founder & CEO. This single statement encapsulates the strategic brilliance behind Mayajaal. The collection is a prescient response to a fundamental shift in how we consume fashion, particularly through visually driven platforms like Instagram.
The modern audience is no longer content with static images; they crave narrative, context, and emotional connection. The Mayajaal campaign is a direct answer to this demand. It’s not a lookbook; it is a short film, a mood board, a piece of performance art. By creating a rich, cinematic world around the garments, Sureena Chowdhri invites the viewer to become part of the story. The clothing is not just to be worn, but to be felt and experienced.
This approach positions the brand leagues apart from those who merely chase fleeting trends. It establishes fashion as a form of cultural conversation, one that engages with identity, emotion, and personal history. It’s a philosophy that respects the intelligence of its audience, trusting them to appreciate nuance and depth over fleeting novelty.
In the grand tapestry of Indian occasion wear, Mayajaal stands as a beacon of thoughtful, "lush yet quiet" elegance. It is a collection for the woman who understands that her reality is her own unique creation—her own personal mirage. Sureena Chowdhri has not just designed clothes; she has crafted a compelling argument for what fashion can and should be: a metaphor for our inner worlds, a mirror to our perceptions, and a touch of everyday magic.
