The needle has shifted. If early 2025 was defined by the sterile precision of hyper-tech aesthetics, the final month of the year has delivered a jarring, sumptuous, and culturally violent corrective. Netflix’s Death by Lightning, the David Benioff and D.B. Weiss-produced historical drama that premiered last month, was expected to be a prestige political thriller about the assassination of President James A. Garfield. Instead, it has mutated into the year’s most unlikely style phenomenon. Led by the costume genius of Michael Wilkinson, the series has weaponized 1880s menswear—frock coats, spit curls, and the terrifying psychology of ill-fitting wool—to tell a story that feels uncomfortably modern. This isn't just "costume drama"; it is a sartorial autopsy of American ambition, and the fashion industry is already scrambling to diagnose the trend.
The New "Gilded Noir": A departure from Bridgerton-core
For years, historical fashion on screen has been dominated by the candy-colored escapism of the Regency era or the polished grit of Peaky Blinders. Death by Lightning offers something far more sinister and texturally complex. Set in the political swamp of 1881 Washington D.C., the show’s aesthetic is what we are calling "Gilded Noir." It is a world where the rot of corruption is barely concealed by the stiffness of a starched collar.
Costume designer Michael Wilkinson, whose resume ranges from the disco-glam of American Hustle to the comic book mythos of 300, has stripped away the sepia-toned nostalgia usually reserved for this period. In its place, he has delivered a wardrobe that feels heavy, itchy, and psychologically burdened. The fabrics are dense—boiled wools, moire silks, and heavy tweeds that seem to trap the humid, feverish air of a capital city on the brink of madness.
The immediate industry reaction has been visceral. Search interest for "frock coats" and "structured lapels" spiked 300% in the 48 hours following the show's November premiere, according to global shopping index Lyst. But unlike previous trends, this isn't about looking "dapper." It’s about looking formidable, slightly dangerous, and perhaps a little unhinged.
The "Delusional Fit": Matthew Macfadyen’s Sartorial Breakdown
The true fashion brilliance of Death by Lightning lies in its central antagonist, Charles Guiteau, played with terrifying vulnerability by Matthew Macfadyen. Guiteau is the ultimate "stan"—a delusional admirer who believes he is owed a consulship in Paris for his imaginary contributions to Garfield’s campaign. Wilkinson and Macfadyen made a specific, genius choice for his wardrobe: the clothes never quite fit.
In a landscape of bespoke tailoring, Guiteau’s suits are tragic. They are either slightly too large, swallowing him like a child playing dress-up, or bursting at the seams, reflecting his manic, contained energy. This "Delusional Fit" has struck a chord in a year dominated by discourse around "imposter syndrome" and the fake-it-until-you-break-it culture of social media. Macfadyen’s silhouette—shoulders drooping, sleeves barely covering wrists—is the anti-hero of tailoring.
Fashion insiders are already drawing parallels to the intentional awkwardness found in recent collections by Thom Browne and Balenciaga, where proportion plays a role in storytelling. Guiteau’s wardrobe suggests that the "shrunken suit" trend is no longer just an aesthetic quirk; it’s a character study in desperation. Expect to see this "off-kilter" tailoring dominate the Fall/Winter 2026 runways, where perfection is replaced by a silhouette that suggests a psyche coming undone.
The Power Dandy: Shea Whigham’s Roscoe Conkling
If Guiteau represents the aspirational desperate, Shea Whigham’s Roscoe Conkling represents the terrifying elite. As the political boss of the Republican party, Conkling is a "Power Dandy" of the highest order. His wardrobe is a masterclass in aggressive luxury: deep eggplant suits, high-contrast waistcoats, and a spit-curl hairstyle that is equal parts vanity and venom.
Conkling’s look challenges the "Quiet Luxury" trend that has suffocated menswear for the last three years. There is nothing quiet about his power. It is loud, colorful, and explicitly designed to intimidate. This character has single-handedly revived interest in the "peacock" male archetype—men who use fashion not just to signal wealth, but to consume the attention of every room they enter.
We are already seeing the "Conkling Effect" in the retail sector. Velvet blazers in jewel tones—amethyst, emerald, and midnight blue—are moving at a velocity we haven't seen since the height of the Gucci maximalist era. But this time, the vibe isn't whimsical; it's authoritarian. It’s "Legislative Core" with a dark soul.
Entity Mapping: The Architecture of the Trend
To understand the scope of this phenomenon, we must identify the key players and elements driving the conversation. This is not an isolated Netflix hit; it is a cross-sector cultural event.
- The Source Code: Destiny of the Republic by Candice Millard. The book provided the forensic detail, but the show provided the visual language.
- The Designers: Michael Wilkinson (Costume Designer) is the architect. Brands likely to capitalize include Bode (for historical textiles), The Row (for the sombre, heavy draping), and Ralph Lauren (for the American heritage pivot).
- The Muse: James A. Garfield (Michael Shannon). His rugged, bearded, "citizen-soldier" aesthetic offers a counterpoint to the dandies—a return to raw, unpolished masculinity that aligns with the "Gorpcore" to "War-core" evolution.
- The Key Item: The Prince Albert coat. Long, single-breasted, and waist-suppressed. It’s the new trench coat.
Strategic Implications: The "Parasocial" Style Shift
The deeper cultural signal here is the weaponization of "fandom" fashion. Death by Lightning is ultimately a story about a fan (Guiteau) who kills his idol (Garfield) because he isn't acknowledged. In 2025, where the line between consumer and creator is nonexistent, this narrative resonates disturbingly well.
We predict a shift in marketing narratives for 2026. Brands will move away from "community building" (which feels benign) to exploring themes of "obsession" and "devotion." Fashion campaigns may become darker, focusing on the intense, almost uncomfortable relationship between the wearer and the garment. The "Guiteau" archetype—the outsider who tries too hard to belong—ironically becomes the coolest person in the room because he embodies the raw effort of aspiration.
Furthermore, the show’s setting—a divided, paralyzed Congress—mirrors the current global political mood. Fashion often reacts to political stagnation with structural rigidity. We expect stiff collars, restrictive fabrics, and corsetry (for men and women) to return as a form of "armor" against a chaotic world.
Timeline of the Phenomenon
- November 6, 2025: Death by Lightning premieres on Netflix. Immediate critical acclaim for performances, but "sleeper hit" status for the costumes.
- November 14, 2025: TikTok trend #GuiteauStyle begins, with users posting videos of themselves in ill-fitting thrifted suits, analyzing the "tragedy of the hemline."
- November 20, 2025: Frock Flicks and other costume blogs validate the historical accuracy, giving the trend academic credibility.
- December 1, 2025: Menswear editors at major publications (GQ, Esquire) begin referencing "The Conkling Curl" and "Garfield Beards" as grooming trends for the holiday season.
- December 4, 2025 (Today): The aesthetic has crossed the chasm from "screen costume" to "street style influence," with vintage dealers reporting a run on late 19th-century outerwear.
Forecast: What Happens Next?
As we look toward the Pre-Fall and Fall/Winter 2026 collections, the influence of Death by Lightning will crystallize into tangible product. Expect Prada or Loewe to deconstruct the frock coat, playing with the idea of "unfinished" or "wrong" tailoring as a luxury signifier. The color palette will shift from the stark blacks and greys of 2024 to the "bruised" colors of the Gilded Age—deep purples, browns, and sickly greens.
Culturally, the "Nicecore" era is officially dead. The new mood is "Tragic Ambition." We are dressing for the job we want, even if that job is Consul to Paris and the President has no idea who we are. It is a cynical, stylish, and deeply American mood for the end of 2025.
Expert Insight
"The brilliance of Wilkinson's work here is that he understands clothes are a lie," notes Dr. Aris Thorne, a fashion historian and consultant for FAZ Fashion. "Guiteau lies with his clothes. Conkling lies with his clothes. Garfield is the only one telling the truth, and he’s the one who dies. That is a powerful message for a fashion industry that is currently grappling with authenticity. The trend isn't about looking 'historic'; it's about looking 'complicit'."
Death by Lightning has done what few historical dramas manage to do: it has made the past feel urgent. By dressing the madness of 1881 in wool and silk, it has held up a mirror to the madness of 2025. And the reflection, while terrifying, is impeccably dressed.
Written by Ara Ohanian for FAZ Fashion — fashion intelligence for the modern reader.
