What is Pattern grading? - Fashion Terms Explained

Introduction to Pattern Grading

In the world of fashion design, creating garments that fit a diverse range of body sizes is essential. This is where pattern grading comes into play. Pattern grading is the process of taking a base pattern (also known as a master or sloper pattern) and systematically resizing it to produce patterns for a variety of sizes. This technique ensures that a single design can be made available in multiple sizes, catering to different body types without compromising the garment's overall fit and style.

Whether you're a budding fashion designer or simply a curious enthusiast, understanding the concept of pattern grading is crucial for appreciating how the industry delivers well-fitting clothes to the masses. Let's dive deeper into this fascinating process.

The Purpose and Importance of Pattern Grading

The primary goal of pattern grading is to create a size range for a specific garment design. Without it, clothing brands would need to create individual patterns for every size from scratch, which would be both time-consuming and inefficient.

Here are some reasons why pattern grading is vital in fashion:

• Mass Production: Pattern grading allows designers to produce garments in a wide range of sizes efficiently, making it indispensable for ready-to-wear collections.
• Consistency: Grading ensures that the proportions of a design remain accurate across all sizes, preserving the garment's original aesthetic and structural integrity.
• Inclusivity: By offering a variety of sizes, brands can cater to a diverse customer base, promoting inclusivity and accessibility.
• Cost-Effectiveness: Grading eliminates the need for repeatedly drafting patterns for each size, saving time and resources.

The Pattern Grading Process

Pattern grading involves a systematic approach to resizing a base pattern. While the process can be done manually or digitally, the techniques and principles remain the same. Here's an overview of how it works:

1. Creating the Base Pattern

The first step in pattern grading is to create a well-fitted base pattern. This pattern serves as the foundation for all subsequent size variations. Designers typically draft this pattern in a sample size, which is often a medium size or a standard size for the target market.

2. Determining Grading Rules

Grading rules define how much the pattern needs to increase or decrease in specific areas to accommodate different sizes. These rules are based on size charts and industry standards. For example:

• Adding or subtracting width at the bust, waist, and hips.
• Adjusting the length of sleeves, bodices, or pant legs.
• Maintaining consistent proportions for design elements like darts, pleats, or pockets.

3. Applying Grading Techniques

There are three primary techniques used in pattern grading:

• Cut-and-Spread Method: This manual technique involves cutting the base pattern into sections and spreading or overlapping them to achieve the desired size changes.
• Shift Method: In this method, the entire pattern is shifted outward or inward along predefined grading points to increase or decrease the size.
• Computerized Grading: Modern pattern grading often utilizes CAD (Computer-Aided Design) software to automate the resizing process. This method is faster and more precise than manual techniques.

4. Finalizing the Graded Patterns

Once the sizes have been graded, the new patterns are checked for accuracy and fit. This step ensures that the resized garments will maintain the intended fit and design elements.

Challenges in Pattern Grading

While pattern grading is a highly effective process, it does come with its challenges:

• Complex Designs: Garments with intricate details, such as pleats, embroidery, or asymmetrical cuts, can be difficult to grade without distorting the design.
• Fit Variations: Not all body types scale proportionally, so a graded pattern might not fit all sizes perfectly. Adjustments may be needed after initial grading.
• Maintaining Proportions: Ensuring that design features like necklines, armholes, and seams remain proportional across sizes can be tricky.

Why Pattern Grading is a Skill Every Designer Needs

Mastering pattern grading is a valuable skill for anyone in the fashion industry. It bridges the gap between design and production, ensuring that creative visions translate into wearable, well-fitting garments for customers of all sizes.

For aspiring designers, learning pattern grading not only enhances technical expertise but also opens up opportunities in various sectors of the industry, from ready-to-wear collections to custom tailoring and even costume design.

Conclusion

Pattern grading is a cornerstone of modern fashion, enabling designers and brands to deliver beautiful, well-fitting garments to a diverse audience. Whether done manually or with the aid of technology, this process ensures that fashion remains inclusive and accessible. By understanding and mastering pattern grading, designers can elevate their craft and create clothing that fits and flatters every body.