In an era where identity and belonging are more fluid than ever, the interplay between fashion, community, and culture has never been more relevant. For over two decades, the groundbreaking project Exactitudes, led by the visionary duo Ari Versluis and Ellie Uyttenbroek, has been at the forefront of documenting this intricate dance. Collaborating with Nada van Dalen, their work delves into the concept of community as brand infrastructure, where local identity and belonging serve as powerful organizing principles in our globalized world.
The Genesis of Exactitudes: A Photographic Journey
Exactitudes, launched in 1998, is more than just a photographic archive; it is a sociological study that captures the essence of group identities through fashion and style. Versluis and Uyttenbroek's collaboration began in 1994, and their work has since become a seminal resource for understanding how individuals use clothing as a language of community, uniformity, and distinction. By systematically documenting social tribes across multicultural cities, they have created a visual encyclopedia of modern identity.
The project's initial focus on Rotterdam, a city celebrated for its multicultural vibrancy, provided the perfect canvas. Rotterdam's diverse streets offered a microcosm of global cultural dynamics, allowing Versluis and Uyttenbroek to explore the nuances of identity in a rapidly changing urban environment. Over the years, Exactitudes has expanded its scope to cities worldwide, reflecting the evolution of subcultures, fashion trends, and urban communities.
A Scientific Approach to Portraiture
What sets Exactitudes apart is its methodical, almost scientific approach to portraiture. Versluis and Uyttenbroek employ a strict methodology, photographing individuals who share distinct sartorial choices in identical poses against uniform backgrounds. This technique underscores both the similarities and subtle differences within social tribes, shedding light on how fashion serves as a language of community, uniformity, and distinction.
By standardizing the pose and background, the photographers eliminate external distractions, focusing the viewer's attention on the subject's attire and demeanor. This approach not only highlights the visual codification of group identities but also reveals the subtle variations that exist within these groups. The result is a body of work that is both anthropologically rigorous and artistically compelling.
From Rotterdam to the World: The Global Expansion of Exactitudes
While Rotterdam remains the spiritual home of Exactitudes, the project's scope has expanded significantly over the years. Versluis and Uyttenbroek have taken their cameras to cities across the globe, documenting the diverse ways in which people use fashion and style to signal their belonging to a particular group or subculture. From the streets of Tokyo to the neighborhoods of New York, Exactitudes has become a global archive of contemporary identity.
This expansion has not only broadened the project's reach but also deepened its insights. By comparing and contrasting different social tribes across cultures and continents, Versluis and Uyttenbroek have been able to identify common patterns and unique expressions of identity. Their work raises important questions about the role of fashion in shaping cultural memory and discourse, both locally and globally.
Community as Brand Infrastructure
In collaboration with Nada van Dalen, Versluis and Uyttenbroek have explored the idea that community itself can act as a brand infrastructure. In this context, local identity and belonging serve as powerful organizing principles, influencing both how people present themselves and how they are perceived in public space. This concept challenges traditional notions of branding, where the community becomes the brand, and the brand becomes the community.
This idea is particularly relevant in today's hyper-connected world, where individuals are increasingly defined by their affiliations with various social, cultural, and political groups. The visual codification of these affiliations through fashion and style serves as a form of non-verbal communication, signaling to others where one stands in the social landscape. Versluis, Uyttenbroek, and van Dalen's work provides a fascinating lens through which to examine this phenomenon.
Key Themes in the Ongoing Research
The collaborative work between Nada van Dalen, Ari Versluis, and Ellie Uyttenbroek explores several key themes that are central to their ongoing research and artistic practice. These themes include:
- The visual codification of group identities through fashion and posture: How individuals and groups use clothing, accessories, and body language to signal their belonging to a particular social tribe.
- The role of the urban environment in nurturing subcultures and new communities: How the physical and cultural landscape of cities shapes the emergence and evolution of distinct social groups.
- How documentation and archiving can shape cultural memory and discourse: The role of photographic archives like Exactitudes in preserving and interpreting the visual history of contemporary culture.
These themes are not only central to the work of Versluis, Uyttenbroek, and van Dalen but also resonate with broader discussions in the fields of fashion, sociology, and cultural studies. Their research continues to spark dialogue about the interplay between individuality and collectivity, raising essential questions for both the fashion industry and broader cultural studies.
The Future of Fashion and Community
As we look to the future, the work of Versluis, Uyttenbroek, and van Dalen reminds us of the enduring power of fashion and style to shape our sense of self and our place in the world. In an era of rapid technological change and globalization, the need to belong and to identify with others has never been more pressing. The Exactitudes archive serves as a powerful reminder of the ways in which fashion can be both a reflection of our individuality and a symbol of our shared humanity.
Moreover, their work challenges us to think critically about the role of community in shaping our identities and our cultures. As the world becomes increasingly interconnected, the concept of community as brand infrastructure offers a new way of thinking about the ways in which we organize ourselves and present ourselves to the world. Whether through fashion, art, or other forms of expression, the power of community to shape our lives and our cultures is undeniable.
Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of Exactitudes
Exactitudes, the groundbreaking project led by Ari Versluis and Ellie Uyttenbroek, has left an indelible mark on our understanding of fashion, culture, and community. Through their systematic documentation of social tribes and group identities, they have created a visual archive that is as much a testament to the diversity of human experience as it is a celebration of our shared humanity.
In collaboration with Nada van Dalen, their work has expanded our understanding of the ways in which community can act as a brand infrastructure, shaping the way we present ourselves and the way we are perceived in public space. As we look to the future, their research continues to spark important conversations about the interplay between individuality and collectivity, raising essential questions for both the fashion industry and broader cultural studies.
Exactitudes is more than just a photographic archive; it is a window into the soul of our times. It reminds us of the power of fashion and style to shape our identities, our communities, and our cultures. And as we navigate the complexities of our rapidly changing world, it offers us a powerful lens through which to understand the ways in which we belong to ourselves and to each other.
